دورية أكاديمية
Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance: A Handful of Weld Yellows from the 18th-Century Recipe Books of French Master Dyers Antoine Janot and Paul Gout
| العنوان: | Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance: A Handful of Weld Yellows from the 18th-Century Recipe Books of French Master Dyers Antoine Janot and Paul Gout |
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| المؤلفون: | Santo, Mara, Cardon, Dominique, Teixeira, Natércia, Nabais, Paula |
| المساهمون: | LAQV-REQUIMTE, Universidade Nova de Lisboa = NOVA University Lisbon (NOVA), Histoire, Archéologie et Littératures des mondes chrétiens et musulmans médiévaux (CIHAM), École normale supérieure de Lyon (ENS de Lyon)-Université Lumière - Lyon 2 (UL2)-École des hautes études en sciences sociales (EHESS)-Université Jean Moulin - Lyon 3 (UJML), Université de Lyon-Université de Lyon-Avignon Université (AU)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), LAQV-REQUIMTE, Departamento de Química e Bioquímica, Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade do Porto = University of Porto, This research was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT/MCTES), through the funded REVIVE project “The threads of the past weaving the future: The colors from the Royal Textile Factory of Covilhã, 1764–1850” (2022.01243, https://doi.org/10.54499/2022.01243.PTDCTest (accessed on 15 August 2023)), and CEEC junior contracts awarded to Paula Nabais (2021.01344.CEECIND) and Natércia Teixeira (2021.01344.CEECIND). This work was also supported through projects UIDB/50006/2020 and UIDP/50006/2020, funded by FCT/MCTES through national funds. |
| المصدر: | ISSN: 2571-9408 ; Heritage ; https://hal.science/hal-04383024Test ; Heritage, 2023, 6 (12), pp.7466-7481. ⟨10.3390/heritage6120391⟩. |
| بيانات النشر: | HAL CCSD MDPI |
| سنة النشر: | 2023 |
| المجموعة: | Portail HAL de l'Université Lumière Lyon 2 |
| مصطلحات موضوعية: | Ancient pigment, synthetic pigments and dyes, pigments identification, [SHS.HIST]Humanities and Social Sciences/History, [CHIM.ANAL]Chemical Sciences/Analytical chemistry |
| الوصف: | International audience ; Antoine Janot and Paul Gout were 18th-century master dyers who specialised in the piece-dyeing of fine wool broadcloths manufactured in Languedoc (southern France) for exportation to the Levant. They wrote treatises, similarly entitled Mémoires de Teinture (Memoirs on Dyeing), illustrated with dozens of dyed textile samples. Janot’s is dated 1744, and Gout’s is dated 1763. These books are full of extremely valuable information, which is unique to its time: the books are composed of carefully described recipes for every colour, each originally preceded by a sample swatch. The yellows of both master dyers made from weld (Reseda luteola L.), belonging to recipes described as Jaune (yellow), were reproduced. The influence of the ingredients, in both the mordanting and dyeing baths, was assessed, and the timings for both baths, which in many recipes are not clear, were tested. This provided key knowledge on the technological processes for dyeing with weld from these 18th c. French masters. The resulting reference samples were preliminarily analysed by a multi-analytical approach. Their chromatic specifications, expressed in the CIEL*a*b*, were compared with those in the Mémoires. Moreover, the influence of the recipe on the percentages of the chromophores was assessed by HPLC-DAD. It was found that the bran and tartar in the mordanting bath influence the final obtained colour and that lime is essential to obtain a bright yellow. |
| نوع الوثيقة: | article in journal/newspaper |
| اللغة: | English |
| العلاقة: | hal-04383024; https://hal.science/hal-04383024Test |
| DOI: | 10.3390/heritage6120391 |
| الإتاحة: | https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage6120391Test https://hal.science/hal-04383024Test |
| رقم الانضمام: | edsbas.E0CC3BC6 |
| قاعدة البيانات: | BASE |
| DOI: | 10.3390/heritage6120391 |
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